Sunday, May 3, 2015
YOLO COUNTY NEWS
99 CENTS

Point of Brew: An American Briton

By
From page A7 | January 05, 2012 |

There are extensive stables at the Hook Norton brewery; the horses are used on a daily basis to deliver beer to the company pubs in the neighborhood. The curious backwater location of this old brewery is based on historic reasons: Hook Norton was first important for quarrying the ironstone rock of which the Cotswold villages are built, and then served the early days of the industrial revolution when the area was a center for building railroads and canals. These activities assured a large local population of very thirsty workers. These days it’s just one of those delightful British oddities. Courtesy photo

I am usually very comfortable in Britain. After all, I spent the first one-third of my life there and grew from a twinkle in my father’s eye to a married man there; I spent all those years fully engaged in the social, cultural, physical and educational fabric of Britain. I am familiar with the place; it is embedded in me.

Therefore, I have never been able to engage with or quite understand the images and anecdotes and oddities of Britain reported by the hordes of American tourists who visit my home country every year.

Until this last trip. Now I get it.

MichaelLewisW
For the first time on this latest trip in December, I observed Britain through the eyes of an American tourist and experienced Britain as an American might. I can boil these impressions down to four main things: the beer (of course), driving, history and scenery.

Beer: British beer, that is real British beer, that is cask ale, served through a hand pump into a pint glass actually is flat and warm. In 50 years of visiting Britain on a fairly regular basis, this is the first time I agree with that perpetual complaint of American tourists about British beer.

I would previously retort that the beer is sufficiently flavorful and carbonated for the style and is at cellar temperature, not warm. Now I would simply say — “You are right: the beer’s warm.”

Of course, there is an ample supply in every British pub of highly carbonated and cold beer of the lager variety. Very good beers they are too, by and large. But I spent most of this trip drinking cask ales and frankly, they are indeed flat and warm.

This doesn’t make them bad beers but they sure could use some gas and refrigeration; that simple idea might, in fact, revive these mostly comatose brands; it would turn them into a version of Amercan microbrews.

In particular, I had the opportunity to visit the Hook Norton Brewery in the village of that name in the Cotswolds, “Where progress is measure in pints.” I was told I could not miss the brewery and, to tell the truth, brewing architecture of the 19th century is quite unmistakable; nevertheless, signage was so poor that I found the place only on my third pass through the village. Turns out, this tower brewery was built in a hollow among the hills.

The core products of this brewery, sold in all 47 of its pubs, are called Hooky something: Hooky Dark, Hooky Gold and Old Hooky. The brewery is tiny, by almost any commercial standard, but is a delight to see because it is so traditional in design and operation, including Clydesdales.

For example, they only recently decommissioned the original Buxton & Thornley steam engine that powered the plant and, even now, the new electric engine drives the brewery through the original part-wooden cogs and drive shafts.

The Hook Norton brewery is a museum piece.

Driving: I learned to drive in Britain on the wrong side of the street with roundabouts and rickety roads that led you from one town to the next until you reached your destination. The first motorways (freeways) were appearing as I departed British shores; in fact, my first-ever drive, on sections of the M-1 in 1960, was to London to get my emigration visa.

Much has changed. Now, there are featureless roads that dash about the countryside, unavoidable and tactless bypasses and ring roads of uncommon complexity and roundabouts of stygian proportions often with traffic lights that one navigates with the whiff of fear in one’s nostrils.

For the first time ever, I took the extra insurance with my rental car; I was glad of it.

History: On the other hand, I gazed with a new wonder and a new appreciation at the sheer ancientness of Britain. Britons do not spend much time contemplating their historic surroundings; they are just too engaged in making life work. They take it all for granted; ho-hum, except perhaps when it’s Westminster Abbey on TV at royal weddings or funerals.

But I marveled in those ancient and historic spaces as an American tourist might whose local ancient monument is Sutter’s Fort, and I reveled in the possessions of the National Gallery and the British Museum.

Scenery: The villages of the Cotswolds were quiet this time of year, not traffic-jammed and tiresome hold-ups on the way to somewhere else. So we could wander the narrow streets and poke about in the antique stores and enjoy those old buildings that, perched so perfectly in their farmland setting, simply glowed in the low yellow light of the winter sun.

And the old pubs, with a hint of woodsmoke in the air from the roaring fires, seemed to be forever open and always had a gracious pint of Old Hooky waiting for me; that was familiar and unchanging.

And, flat and warm though the beer be, that alone was worth the trip!

— Reach Michael Lewis at [email protected] Comment on this column at www.davisenterprise.com

Comments

comments

.

News

Breaking barriers: For Prieto, it’s all about hard work

By Lauren Keene | From Page: A1 | Gallery

 
Council to hear about drought pricing

By Dave Ryan | From Page: A1

Peaceful Baltimore demonstrators praise top prosecutor

By The Associated Press | From Page: A2

 
Nigeria: Nearly 300 freed women, children led to safety

By The Associated Press | From Page: A2

 
For the record

By Enterprise staff | From Page: A2

 
Graveyard thefts land three Woodlanders behind bars

By Lauren Keene | From Page: A3

Downtown altercation leads to injuries

By Anne Ternus-Bellamy | From Page: A3

 
Woman arrested for brandishing knife on overpass

By Anne Ternus-Bellamy | From Page: A3

Yolo DA launches monthly newsletter

By Enterprise staff | From Page: A3

 
Can plants talk? UCD prof will answer that question

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A3 | Gallery

A Scottish setting for local author’s next book

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A3

 
Free beginner yoga class offered

By Enterprise staff | From Page: A4

 
Video discusses surveillance of prostate cancer

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A4

NAMI support group meets May 10

By Enterprise staff | From Page: A4

 
Dr. G featured on the radio

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A4

Fee proposed on rail cars that haul oil, other flammables

By The Associated Press | From Page: A4 | Gallery

 
Indoor Fun Fly comes to Woodland

By Enterprise staff | From Page: A4

 
Internships move UCD doctoral students beyond academia

By Julia Ann Easley | From Page: A5 | Gallery

Make Mom a warm vanilla sugar scrub

By Enterprise staff | From Page: A6

 
The secret to Mother’s Day gifting success: Give time, not stuff

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A6

Letter book is series of collected missives thanking Mom

By The Associated Press | From Page: A7

 
If your mom fancies something fancy, consider a tea party

By The Associated Press | From Page: A7

Out of Africa and back to Davis: James Carey will give special presentation

By Kathy Keatley Garvey | From Page: A9 | Gallery

 
Big Day of Giving makes philanthropy easy

By Tanya Perez | From Page: A10 | Gallery

Tuleyome Tales: How are a snake and a mushroom alike?

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A12 | Gallery

 
Tuleyome hosts Snow Mountain camping trip

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A12 | Gallery

.

Forum

End of life doesn’t mean life must end

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: B4 | Gallery

 
Advancing education for California’s former foster youths

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: B4

With sincere gratitude

By Letters to the Editor | From Page: B4

 
A wonderful day of service

By Letters to the Editor | From Page: B4

Please help Baltimore

By Letters to the Editor | From Page: B4

 
Eyewitness to the ‘fall’ of Vietnam: It was not a bloodbath

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: B5 | Gallery

He can’t give it up

By Creators Syndicate | From Page: B6

 
 
Dangers from prescription pills

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: B6

.

Sports

UCD softball splits with Titans

By Enterprise staff | From Page: B1 | Gallery

 
Trifecta of Devil teams open playoffs Tuesday

By Evan Ream | From Page: B1 | Gallery

 
Defending champ DHS clinches a baseball playoff berth

By Enterprise staff | From Page: B1

Making memories at Aggie Stadium

By Wayne Tilcock | From Page: B3 | Gallery

 
Sports briefs: DHS boys win to reach lacrosse playoffs

By Enterprise staff | From Page: B3 | Gallery

UCD roundup: Aggie women speed past Hornets

By Enterprise staff | From Page: B12 | Gallery

 
Pro baseball roundup: Hudson pitches Giants past Angels

By The Associated Press | From Page: B12

.

Features

.

Arts

.

Business

Arcadia partners on soybean trait to improve yield

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A8

 
Marrone opens new greenhouse

By Special to The Enterprise | From Page: A8

 
New firm helps students on path to college

By Wendy Weitzel | From Page: A8

Yolo County real estate sales

By Zoe Juanitas | From Page: A8

 
.

Obituaries

.

Comics

Comics: Sunday, May 3, 2015

By Creator | From Page: B8