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Ann Evans

At my table: Checking out Southern California’s food heritage

Santa Monica, the progressive Southern California beachfront city of 93,000 in western Los Angeles County, has one of the great California farmers markets, where chefs shop alongside 9,000 other weekly shoppers. The Los Angeles region in general — with its 3.8 million people, museums, public markets and entrepreneurial culture in food — is an urban […]

Smoking meat for maximum flavor

Connor Fung told me recently over lunch he hadn’t smoked in a while. I laughed. I knew he meant smoking meat, like brisket, pork or ribs over low heat for a long time for maximum flavor. A native son of Davis, recently home from college and settling into the next phase of life, he and […]

French Provisions: Summer reading about La Belle France

There’s nothing like a summertime read late into the night, on the beach, by the lake or prior to an afternoon nap. This is lazy time. Travel time for the imagination to the tables and cultures of a favorite country. I like to peek into the peculiarities of French rural culture with its distinctive characters, […]

July 01, 2015 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,

Portland — a culinary utopia

The City of Portland was named “Best Food Town” and called a culinary utopia by Sunset Magazine in its June issue. I flew up to Portland recently, on the hunt for good food. The question I came away with was, what makes a city so creative and entrepreneurial at every level of the food scene? […]

June 03, 2015 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,

SHED, a modern grange in Healdsburg

Like a previous generation of restaurants started as gathering places around a new paradigm for food and agriculture — Chez Panisse in Berkeley, White Dog Café in Philadelphia and Restaurant Nora in Washington, D.C., come to mind — SHED is a modern grange. Like The California Grange, it supports and advocates for healthy communities, family farms and local economies. […]

May 07, 2015 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,

Ringing in the Year of the Sheep with dim sum

By Ann M. Evans Tiny white plates and bamboo steam baskets of food on double-decker stainless steel trollies burst out of the kitchen’s double doors. Cantonese-speaking wait staff in gold-brocade vests push their trollies around the banquet hall filled with 600 people. This is dim sum. Various cultures have the tradition of small plates for […]

March 04, 2015 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,

Dim sum!

March 04, 2015 | Posted in Media Post

Bitter stokes the appetite

Bitter is an underappreciated yet important part of the flavor spectrum — and the topic of a new book. We love the taste of bitter — from horseradish to winter greens such as radicchio and escarole to coffee and IPA beer. Bitters, high-proof alcohol infused with botanicals and other aromatic ingredients, have been around for centuries, and are […]

January 14, 2015 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,

Sweet potato pie, chicken and waffles: food for the soul

Sweet potato pie is the only item on the dessert menu of Brown Sugar Kitchen that is served every day. Executive chef and owner Tanya Holland says you’d be surprised how many people have it for breakfast. We’re fans of Holland, her restaurant and her new cookbook with Jan Newberry, “Brown Sugar Kitchen — New Style, […]

November 12, 2014 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,

From the ground up: Rediscovering classic cheesecake

As autumn begins, pumpkins come to mind, and there are plenty of savory as well as sweet ways to use them, for example, pumpkin cheesecake. Georgeanne makes this for her family at Thanksgiving. Cheesecake, however, has been on my mind since the summer, when I ate a slice in Philadelphia. I confess I hadn’t tasted […]

October 01, 2014 | Posted in Food & Drink | Tagged ,
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