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Thursday, April 17, 2014
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Author Archive: Dan Kennedy

Asparagus: Bonanza year goes local

This has been an asparagus season like no other. Asparagus from south of the border was in the supermarkets at unheard-of prices this winter. A dollar a pound, $2 a pound — there was a huge supply, depressing prices. Even Nugget had asparagus at 99 cents per pound, presumably as a loss leader. And the […]

Field to Fork: When local is 5,974 miles away

What form of twisted reasoning can I employ to permit the topic to be balsamic vinegar? Customarily, “local” in the food sphere means up to an hour or two on the road for a pickup truck heading to the Davis Farmers Market. Or, it means within 100 miles, as supermarkets sometimes say. Or, grown in […]

From field to fork: A food path that leaves me smiling

Imagine, for a moment, that you met the love of your life in the first grade. I did. Of the three cute girls in their brown Catholic-school jumpers — Janet, Barbara and Diane — the latter was my favorite. We married eventually and didn’t care much about our home cooking for a great many years. […]

From Field to Fork: Pasta Dave presses for excellence

Dave Brochier makes pasta with all the love and craftsmanship you’d hope for … and then some. He can regale you for hours about the nuances of pasta. Take chitarra, which he tells me was first made in Abruzzo, Italy, in the 14th century. It’s properly known as spaghetti alla chitarra, the latter being the […]

Field to fork: From bracero to granddad of the market

A great many people walk on by, but there are those who stop. It’s a small stall, as vendor space goes at the Davis Farmers Market. It’s fundamental, easily passed, as it doesn’t sport the eye-catching retail design displayed by some of the other vendors. Small baskets, boxes, piles. Whatever’s fresh that week is on […]

Field to Fork: Comparing apples to apples … to mustard

Earlier this month, Diane and I dropped in on the Dane County farmers market in Madison, Wis., shopping for both vegetables and trout. It was our night to cook for the relatives, and of course I wondered how their farmers market stacked up. Well, it’s bigger. Much, much bigger, filling four long blocks that form […]

With tomatoes abundant, try Italian fare

As an abundant tomato crop comes in from local fields, and we all deploy our year-to-year standard preparations for this delicious summer fruit. In our house, the go-to recipe is thick-sliced, ripe tomatoes drizzled with balsamic vinegar, sprinkled with salt and topped with shredded fresh Genovese basil. What’s on your table? Thousands of miles away, […]

Dan Kennedy: Buying Stone Fruit: A Hard Choice

Surely you’ve bought peaches, apricots or nectarines that were supposed to ripen after sitting for a few days on your kitchen counter, but they never did. It can make a person disgruntled. You feel like you’re out $3 a pound or more. Admittedly, this is what is called a First World problem. We actually have […]

From field to fork: What a small organic grower copes with

The year is 1999, and the date is April 27. Jim Eldon, whose life happens daily at Fiddlers’ Green Farm, remembers it well. That date and what happened came to mind several days ago as we stood amid flats of squash and cucumber seedlings. Back then he had 15,000 tomato seedlings ready for planting. He […]

From field to fork: Winery appointments — is it for you?

Anyone with enthusiasm for wine eventually ends up at wine tastings, and over time that will include a trip to Napa Valley. Or a dozen. Diane and I first went to Napa in the days when tastings were free and it wasn’t so commercialized. My mother, my mother-in-law, my wife’s sister and brother and their […]

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